Mardi Gras 2007

Feb. 16-19, 2007

by Joyce Thompson

Hello, my name is Joyce and I’m a zyde-holic. However, unlike other addictions, the preferred treatment is repeated exposure to Zydeco dance, including travel, friends who love Zydeco and conversations that begin and end with, “Have you heard _____?” (Fill in the blank with any Cajun/Zydeco band name.) Let me tell you about my recent therapy.

The Florida Girlz (as they will be known throughout, though, individually, we are Lynn, Sue & Joyce) packed the car with liquids and snacks and set out early Friday morning (the Friday before Mardi Gras) --- destination: the LaQuinta in Lafayette, LA --- known nationally as a first-class resting place for Cajun/Zydeco dancers. With few pit stops and driver changes, we rolled into the motel parking lot about 5pm, only to be greeted by our hero, the Bartman himself, tossing beads to us from the motel balcony.

Friday Night Dinner/Dancing at Mulates and Celebrating at La Poussiere

Fast forward through unloading the car and refreshing our wardrobe and off we go to Mulate’s for dinner. If you have never been to Mulate’s (and I feel soooo sorry for you) think Sonny’s with a dance floor, and Cajun food, not BBQ. Lee Benoit et famille started playing just about the time we finished eating, so we had just enough time for a few two-steps and a waltz. Unlike our New Year’s Eve adventure, Mulate’s was not crawling with unattached dancers this evening. After taking turns dancing with Bart, Lynn & I began scrounging the corners for likely prospects. We dug up some shrimpers from Oklahoma who were more than happy to stomp their country two-step to the Cajun beat – beggars can’t be choosers!!

Our feet did not tarry long at Mulate’s since the main event was a Mardi Gras celebration with the Krewe de Canaille at La Poussiere (The Dust) in Breaux Bridge, just down the road from Lafayette. Masks in place, the Florida Girlz stared in awe at the costumes & pageantry unfolding before our eyes. The Krewe had appointed their King & Queen and were parading them down the middle of the dance floor, along with other royalty of the court. Gold, glitter, beads, full head-dresses, rag-a-muffin costumes, pointy hats, mortarboards, face-paints, parasols, and, most interesting of all, couples in coordinating costumes so you could actually tell which man and woman belonged together (not a common occurrence at most dances) dazzled our eyes and made it almost impossible to dance. Notice, I said, almost!! The all-female Cajun band, Bonsoir Catin (click link to hear their music!) stirred the mix and partners appeared from all corners. We danced into the wee hours (OK, 11pm – remember, we drove all day!) fortified by our first bites of King Cake.

Saturday Morning at Café des Amis

If you have ever been to Lafayette for a dance weekend, you already know what we did on Saturday morning. However, this Saturday morning at Café des Amis, we huddled outside the restaurant in 20° weather -- coats, scarves, hats and gloves barely shielding us from the wind. The line was long, but we thought pure thoughts (that we might get a table) since they had not yet opened. Can you believe the people behind us only came for breakfast?

To clarify for the uninitiated, Café des Amis is a VERY nice restaurant serving a full breakfast menu, including beignets and mimosas, that books a Zydeco band every Saturday morning. By the time we made it into the restaurant, brrrrrrr, we were given a number for table #62. That would be after the first 30 tables had just filled with breakfast dancers who probably would not leave until the band stopped playing!! So, like the brave little troupers we are the Florida Girlz and their hero, Bartman, squeezed past the bar and headed towards the back – stopping for coffee & mimosas first, of course.

Near the back, at a table for two, sat our good friend, Ken, from West Virginia, who comes to Florida to dance in the winter. Our good friend, Ken, soon became our best friend, Ken, as he kindly agreed to share his table with the four of us (remember, it’s a table for TWO) and the wonderful, angelic waitress encouraged us to order there instead of waiting for table #62 – we made sure she got a good tip! So five people at a table for two --- not a problem, considering the band is cranking out their first tune. Li’l Nathan (including a much littler Nathan – ‘bout 7 years old on “baby rubboard”) and his band, The Big Timers (again, for more music), double-clutched that Zydeco beat and kept the dancers packed elbow to elbow, rear to rear. Don’t you dare leave the dance floor, you’ll never get back in – and the waiters won’t let you stand in the aisles, what aisles??

Saturday Afternoon with Geno

The Florida Girlz staggered out of the restaurant when the band stopped, about 11:30am, feet burning, throats dry, knees & hips creaking --- and headed to a party at noon with Geno Delafose and the French Rockin’ Boogie. This was a house party, in the tradition of rural Zydeco dances, held outdoors with food and lots of people. Bart’s friend, Gerry, our host, built a large covered garage with two walls, attached to the house. That leaves one wall completely open for many vehicles to park under cover. But not today, oh no, buddy. Today the garage floor is covered with dancers and Geno is pulling song after song out of his accordion, makin’ that magic music for everyone to enjoy. The weather has turned the day into a classic - beautiful, blue skies, sunny, warm-not-hot, cool-not-cold.

Gerry brought in a friend, a chef from New Orleans, who provided us with beef, chicken & shrimp filled pastries, each with just a hint of Cajun spiciness. Everyone else brought food & drinks, too, and we ate lots more King Cake. Each Florida Girl has her own special story to tell about these dances and mine, for this dance, was dancing the Whiskey River Shuffle with Michael Seider, the instructor on the DVD that waits for me back in Gainesville. I am determined to get a feel for this dance (Whiskey River Shuffle) during this trip since I am hopelessly lost while watching the DVD.

Saturday Night Dinner/Dancing at Randol's

Eat, dance, eat, dance, drink, sleep, eat dance. The therapy seems to be working, doc. The Florida Girlz are ready for a nap (and a shower – that garage floor was dusty!). But the down-time is short, Randol’s awaits. Where is Randol’s again? Ahhh, our hero (Bart) to the rescue --- dontcha just love cell phones? So, with our hastily scribbled directions, the Florida Girlz head off to downtown Lafayette. Uh, oh --- what’s with the traffic? Is it construction? Is it a car accident? Is it a train wreck (private joke)? No, no, no, no, no, no, no! It’s a parade!!!! A Mardi Gras parade - blocking our route to Randol’s. Sue is ready to park the car & hop on the nearest parade float, but Chicago Lynn promises we’ll see another parade another day, honey. Right now, we have to get to Randol’s because it’s been 2 hours since we last danced and we don’t want to forget how!! Veer to the left, veer to the right, where are you going, Lynn? --- don’t worry, if I can find my way in Chicago, I can get you around this parade and back onto Bart’s route. And she does!!

Randol’s is low-key, wonderful music by Kevin Naquin and the Ossun Playboys with lots of nice dance partners. And, for the first time this trip, I am about to experience the Sue-phenomenon (notice the word “men” in “pheno-men-on”). Again we eat, dance, eat, dance --- and at one point, as I return to the table, Sue is avidly conversing with a very nice gentleman who is hanging on her every word. She introduces him around the table and we briefly engage in a whole table conversation, but then we are off to dance again. Later, returning to the table, Sue is, now, engaged in avid conversation with TWO men, both, again, hanging on her every word. As she will later explain, the second guy was friends with the first guy and, really, just came to the table to sit with his friend, sure!

Following our dance excursion to Randol’s, we are achin’ for some Zydeco. Let’s go to El Sid O’s --- but, we forgot to ask our hero for directions. As we drive around searching for familiar landmarks, the extent of our dance day begins to take its toll. Ostensibly heading back to the LaQuinta to look up directions, or ask in the lobby, we pull into the parking lot and collapse. Yup, time to call it a night. In bed by 11pm sounds like a good plan, and no need to rush off the next morning for a crazy Zydeco breakfast.

Sunday Breakfast at the Blue Dog Café

Ahhhh, Sunday! Sleep in, catch up on the news, relax and enjoy. But not for long, we are headed to the Blue Dog --- not the Blue Moon Saloon. The place is filled with original art and serves a fancy, delicious breakfast buffet. We’re not talkin’ Shoney’s here! For $20, we get waaaayy more than scrambled eggs & grits. Well, Sue & Lynn do anyway. I elected for the LaQuinta continental feed, thus freeing up my time to hang out in the bar at the Blue Dog to listen & dance to L’Angelus (from KK - OMG, the first song on their sample list).

The whole family was there and each put their two-cents worth into the music --- even the baby wailed a measure. During the band-break, Bart & I wandered over to Lynn & Sue’s table and, there’s that guy again, the one from Randol’s, more interested in Sue than he is in his beignet. Hmmm, more Sue-pheno-men-on. After the break, as we are hangin’ out and chatting up the crowd (including the two pink ladies – blondes in sparkly pink costumes with pink masks, long gloves and Southern Belle hats), a friendly gentleman and his granddaughter passé dedans la porte arrière (come in through the back door – a song we heard at EVERY dance). Our hero, Bart, recognizes this Cajun icon as Hadley Castille, and introduces him to us while his granddaughter, Sarah Jayde joins L’Angelus for several numbers, playing the fiddle & singing in French (as they all do!!). Turns out, she is planning her second CD and considering one of the L’Angelus brothers as co-performer. Oh, did I mention, she is seventeen? Go ahead, Google Mr. Castille. Be amazed, just as the Florida Girlz were when we heard his name & voice on our L’Angelus CD while driving back home.

Sunday Afternoon at Vermillionville

Did I say the morning was amazing? Words cannot describe the overwhelming feeling of awe inspired by such talent. But our immersion in Cajun/Acadian culture has only begun. Our next stop (after Taco Bell – gotta refuel!) is Vermilionville, a re-created village that “authentically portrays a way of life preserved with a distinctly French accent situated on the banks of the Bayou Vermilion.” In addition to this taste of history, they also have a huge dance hall where Thomas “Big Hat” Fields is playing all afternoon. Again, the weather is more than perfect and the music is jumping. Lynn & Sue have started to talk about the Minnesota boys (more on them later) between beer & dances. Where has the time gone? Every time I turn around there’s another partner, better than the last one. Oops, except for what’s-his-name. Just learned Zydeco an hour ago. But what a go-getter. Show me this, how does that go, you do WHAT with your leg? I know he’s hooked, now!

And On To Whiskey River Landing

After helping Paul, Thomas & Geneva pack up their gear – OK, we weren’t any help at all, but they enjoyed laughing & flirting with us, though Bart better watch out around Geneva, Big Hat looks like the jealous type! – the Florida Girlz headed to Whiskey River Landing, by way of St. Martinsville. In case you haven’t already guessed, St. Martinsville is nowhere near Whiskey River!! But, after making our wrong turn, we got to follow a Mardi Gras party wagon through the countryside. This is an open-air, covered wagon, pulled by a pick-up truck, spewing Zydeco music loud and clear for all the neighbors to hear. We rolled down our windows and hung beads from the side mirrors, waving at all the people coming out of their houses to check out the noise. No, Sue, we are not at the parade, yet.

With our hero’s cell phone assistance, again, we retraced our steps and got back on track to Whiskey River, where Geno Delafose is holding Zydeco court for his worshipping fans. The view from the top of the ramp, before descending to the dance floor, is unbelievable. The packed crowd moves as one to the down-beat and side-to-side weight shift. No way can three more dancers fit on the floor – unless we dance right in front of the band. Earplugs in? Let’s do it!!! Again, partners at every turn, and no point asking their names – can’t hear anything anyway! Don? Ron? John? Where you from? Minnesota, Boston, Florida? (yes, Dwight from Tampa was the first one I ran into!!), New York, right down the road, Baton Rouge, etc. OK – so I’m in the famed Whiskey River dance hall, surely someone here is doing the Whiskey River Shuffle!

I inch my way towards the edge where I spot Yvonne & Wayne, the couple who danced the shuffle at Fred’s during our 2006 New Year’s Eve adventure. As the music starts, the familiar eyebrow lift & hand-extended dance invitation comes from an un-imposing fellow in an orange shirt. Where is the groove? I can’t seem to fit his rhythm. I glance at his feet, and, lo and behold, he’s not doing slow-quick-quick, slow-quick-quick. He’s doing slow-slow-quick-quick, the same pattern Michael Seider showed me on Saturday. Why, it’s the Whiskey River Shuffle!! FOR TEN MINUTES!! Sweat pouring down our faces, panting, laughing, you OK?, I’m OK, let’s keep going, loooonnnnng dance. Hallelujah - mission accomplished - I got the basic. After the dance, I found Yvonne & Wayne again, and they promptly dragged me over to their group of friends, shouting, “We’re all going to the St. Pete Crawfish festival (March 9-11, 2007)! Will you be there?” Of course, and maybe I’ll get more WRS practice!

And Again - On to Pat's Atchafalaya River (Yes, This is Still Sunday!)

Where are Lynn & Sue? I’m ready for the next dance adventure and they are at the upstairs bar surrounded by men, well, at least Sue is. Lynn has found a wanna-be musician named Naquin in a black cowboy hat and Sue has the attention of a couple of locals who thought I was she, until they saw her and didn’t want me! Do I have to drag ‘em outta here? Practically – ‘cause it’s time to mosey on down the road to Pat’s Atchafalaya Club. We’ve missed the Pine Leaf Boys, but Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys (no music, sorry) are bringing down the house.

Pat’s is a huge restaurant with multiple decks overlooking the Atchafalaya River. The dance floor is as big as a basketball court with huge areas for tables at either end. And Cajun rules – 90% of the couples are traveling in the line of dance, especially for the waltzes, with graceful turns and smooth side-by-side steps. Just a bit of jitterbug hovers near the edges and the random swing dancers are waaayyy outside the circle, over by the back door. However, before the end of the night, the Florida Girlz find out what happens when hydration doesn’t include restocking of electrolytes. It ain’t fun to crash and burn --- will we make it to another day? Lundi Gras?

Lundi Gras - By McGee's Landing On a Flatboat!

Our last day of dancing begins with the Yankee-Chank Swamp Jam, two flatboats launching from the dock by McGee’s Landing, just down the levee from Whiskey River and Pat’s where we were last night --- maybe we shoulda camped out! The musicians gather at the front of the boat and the dancers tend to the rear, but the boat is not large enough to provide any real division. Ten fiddles, three accordions, a triangle, a guitar, and several of us tapping our toes to the tunes. We dance a bit, chat a bunch and, generally, enjoy the company. Our fellow travelers hail from Atlanta, Ohio, Boston, New York, Philly --- Chris, the Irish guy, was quite a dish --- Maine, North Carolina, and so on. One of my Whiskey River partners (from Bahston) gave me a mini-lecture on accordion construction & operation while we watched the fellows’ bellows.

Lunch at McGee’s followed, though we were not tempted by the whooping platter of crawfish that we saw everywhere. Makes quite a mess, but must be worth the eats. Did you know that McGee’s sells books? The Florida Girlz, thoroughly enthralled by the Mardi Gras traditions, costumes and music, hankered for enlightenment. What’s it all about, anyway? I do believe we spent more money on reading material than food!! But, it kept us entertained on the way back to Florida.

Doctor, doctor I think I’m cured. The zyde-holism seems to be gone. I need a nap, and then, with “avoid the blocked parade streets” directions from Bart we are off to the Queen’s Parade in Lafayette. Are you ready, Sue? --- we’re finally at a parade!! Oh, my, my, my my! High school and junior high bands (Joyce, stop worrying about racial balance in the schools) and floats taller than buildings filled with beautifully gowned ladies tossing handfuls, armfuls, bagsful of beads, beads, beads!!! Piece of advice? Don’t stand next to a cute little girl sitting on her father’s shoulders --- she’s gonna get ALL the beads. Plus, since ladies were tossing, the young, male, hotties at the refreshment stand got their share, too. Not to worry, though – the Florida Girlz left the parade staggering under the weight of plastic sparkles.

Monday Continues at Grant Street

Oh no – a relapse. Grant St. is just ahead. We’ve missed half of Pine Leaf Boys, hurry, hurry!! Must dance…. And so we did. Arriving close to 8:30pm straight from the parade, and finding the best parking space had us so psyched we were dancin’ before we paid our money! The rest of the PLB show was to die for (their music). How many times did we hear La Chanson de Mardi Gras (#11)? "Capitaine, Capitaine, voyage ton flag. / Allons se mettre dessus le chemin. / Capitaine, Capitaine, voyage ton flag. / Allons aller chez l'autre voisin." ("Captain, Captain, wave your flag. / Let's take to the road. / Captain, Captain, wave your flag. / Let's go to the other neighbors.") Sung to a haunting melody this song became the rallying cry of the night. Parades of costumed dancers snaked through the floor in true Mardi Gras style.

The second act, Lost Bayou Ramblers, fueled our spirits with high-energy, knock your socks off, Cajun power. Thanks to the size of the dance floor, their young, cult following, not-so-much-into-dancing fans added to the excitement without crowding the dancers. Anyone want to guess the name of the third act for the evening? No? You’ve heard him before, but not like this, ladies & gentlemen --- Geno Delafose and French Rockin’ Boogie. Truth is, we never tire of his rhythm, his voice, his whole sound.

The Minnesota boys were out in full force (25 men & women fled the frozen north to Mardi Gras party in LFT), as well as all the other dancers from all the other places around the country. One of my favorites was Dave, the ex-competition dancer with bad knees. He stole my breath away --- and not due to his good looks. And don’t forget the shiny, purple couple, one from New York and one from Connecticut. We’d spotted them dancing earlier that evening and their dance-moves were as slick as their shirts. When Bart made a move for the lady (he asked her to dance), I gobbled up the gent and off we went again for more fabulous dancing. I found Chris, the Irish dish, and a bald-headed man in a suit whose Zydeco frame was so solid my feet barely touched the floor. Lynn fell in dance-love with a tall, good-looking stranger in a black vest and cowboy hat. Sue, well, Sue had plenty of dances, and, whenever she needed a break, there was always a man or two by her side to chat or bring her a beer. The Sue-pheno-men-on just kept on clicking. She picked up more business cards & emails than Lynn & I together. Our dance-therapy came to an end as the clock struck --- 1:30am??? You’re kidding, right?! Can’t be. We just got here. Doctor, doctor, the dancing didn’t cure my fever.

When’s the next treatment weekend? St. Pete? Crawfish Festival? March 9-11, 2007? I’ll be there!! Who’s playing? Doesn’t really matter, but – you guessed it, Geno Delafose and French Rockin’ Boogie, Kevin Naquin and the Ossun Playboys, Steve Riley and the Mamou Playboys, and The Pine Leaf Boys, plus two other bands that were not on the Mardi Gras playlist. You don’t want to miss your next chance to dance--- and look for me in the middle of the dance floor. Doctor’s orders!!